About Neuw Denim
THE NEUW BLACK
Just like ancient African rhythms run through any music worth dancing to, a black thread runs through Neuw’s ‘Black Weft’ products. It gives our jeans a deep, intensely dark tone and it brings fabrics crafted by artisan mills according to traditional customs to the present.
The Black Weft is more than just a product feature though. It symbolizes a life less ordinary.
A celebration of independent culture, individuality and good times.
Oscar Wilde once said: ‘Life is too important to be taken seriously’ and that is the spirit of Black Weft. A non traditional spin on denim heritage combined with an ambition to live life to its fullest. Right here, right now!
THE NEUW BLACK
Denim has been a canvas upon which stories have been written throughout history. Although it has been rumored that the original blue jean was created out of dyed sailcloth, denim first became a garment cloth in the early 1870’s when it was crafted by Jacob W Davies into a durable and reliable work overall. They were popular with miners, explaining why many of Par’s (one of the founders and The Creative Director of Neuw Denim) archive pieces have been dug out of closed down mines. The earliest known pair which only became known as jeans around 1925, dates back to 1880’s.
This jean’s features such as over dyed top warp and white weft, pocket rivets, v line yolk and five pockets have stood the test of time. Today over two centuries later they are still on almost every pair of jeans. The tenacity of denim as a garment cloth and it’s history in work wear origins is why denim has always been the working man’s, the under dogs and the catalyst’s choice of clothing.
THE NEUW BLACK
Denim culture was born in the 1950’s. A rebellious youth subculture chose this former work wear cloth for their uniform as they catalysed change within the seemingly perfect “American Dream.” We look back at icons such as James Dean that epitomized the spirit of this era. We see their influence in the style of V the most iconic musicians who once again wear this cloth as a symbol of empathy and camaraderie with the everyday man. As an independent brand, Neuw Denim draws inspiration from these people and these values. Our cuts of jeans originate from the very jeans that these musicians and rebels wore. Denim is created through a 3 x 1 weave of coarse cotton fiber. The fabric produced is then dyed and treated to create a denim cloth which can weigh between 9oz and 16oz or even greater.
Traditionally the warp, which is the lengthwise top layer of vertical yarn is dyed indigo whilst the weft, the horizontal yarn which runs from selvedge to selvedge is dyed white. This creates the dynamic look of denim and is what allows wear and tear of the warp to develop char- acter in the jean over time. Techniques such as grinding, scarping and sand blasting are treatments that can be applied to the jean to enhance the character or create an aged look. Neuw uses traditional treatments like these to create premium jeans in various fits and cuts inspired by the work wear heritage and the rebel icons of denim’s history.
Black Weft, the Neuw Denim signature is where the brand takes an innovative approach to creating a modern jean from the reference of denim heritage. The juxtaposition of traditional techniques with the contemporary innovation of the black weft.
Selvedge denim is a unique type of fabric that is made by means of using one continuous cross-yarn (the weft) which is passed back and forth through the vertical warp beams. This method of weaving the selvedge is possible only when using a shuttle loom. Shuttle looms weave a narrower 30-inch fabric, which is on average half the width of modern looms. Consequently a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans from selvedge denim.
The old fashioned and slow weaving process creates a dense fabric with more personality and character than modern, mass-produced equivalents. Traditionally this premium fabric is fnished at both edges with a contrasting red thread; NEUW’s Black Selvedge is fnished with black.
Black Rope started with our favourite albums. We looked at what the artists wore and quickly found an important motif; dark denim jeans, leather and suede jackets. We decided to reference the character and quality of the jeans they were wearing whilst modernizing the technique, so we said ‘What if we bring the dark decadent look of leather and suede jackets to jeans?’ The way we did it was to look at the development of the smallest and frst component in denim: The Yarn.
High quality denim is traditionally dyed with a process called rope dying. The indigo rope dying process is unique because it leaves the core of the cotton yarn white and allows the fabric to fade and develop character with wear and tear. Black Rope is an evolution of traditional rope dying. Our men’s Indigo jeans are rope dyed and have each individual thread wrapped in a black wax. Rather than completely saturating the yarn with a black dye (as is the case with most black jeans), the black jeans have a grey thread that is rope dyed and then wrapped in a black wax, ensuring a similar aging process to that of indigo jeans.
Black Rope treated denim develops three dimensional worn in effects whilst holding the robust and substantial hand-feel of a well worn in leather jackets.